With the end of our Moroccan adventure looming, we decided to keep it local for our penultimate day in mountains. Despite being just a short hop from Marrakech, The Capaldi feels completely isolated; step outside the pink walls of the gardens and you’re surrounded by the stark, barren beauty of the Atlas foothills. It was along these dusty tracks that we set off for Lalla Takerkoust, a long lake in the middle of the African plains, with the promise of lunch at the highly recommended Le Flouka restaurant on its shores.
The 45 minute walk in the blazing May heat was as much a part of the experience as the destination, taking us past tiny Berber villages (and the odd candy-coloured villa), crumbling stone walls overlooking vast golden cornfields, and through craggy desert pathways. Vast cacti line the crumbling stone walls, broken up by brightly painted Majorelle blue doors. About halfway there we were treated to an incredible panoramic view of the mountain plains, the only other signs of life being the occasional stray dog, a little donkey and an old farmer gathering corn in the distance.
Rejoining the ‘main road’ (still more of a rough dust track) we rounded a corner to see the lake spread out across the horizon like a desert mirage. The landscape was noticeably more lush as we neared the water, with pink roses and greenery creeping across the painted walls of gardens overlooking the shores. The lake is actually artificial, created by a dam where Lalla Takerkoust, the patron saint of the area, is said to be buried. Lalla Takerkoust also refers to the upstream water from the mountains, and the lake is known for its therapeutic properties.
We reached Le Flouka at midday, and immediately fell in love with this tiny hotel restaurant that leads directly onto the shore of the lake. Stepping through the archway and down the stone steps, you enter a hidden oasis in the desert. A shady patio on the right is dotted with iron garden furniture, while the main seating overlooks the lake itself and, at the bar, nattily dressed French waiters mix the restaurant’s signature rose wine cocktail. We were greeted by Le Flouka’s French owner, Bruno, with whom we had a surreal conversation about Stoke on Trent and charity shops (!) before ordering a selection of the freshest appetisers. Then we sat back and took in the incredible view… heaven.
After a little too much sun and beer, we were less excited about the walk home. But it turned out that we had company to liven up the journey – the restaurant’s resident dog, Flouki, followed us all the way back to our hotel! Seems the Moroccan dogs were taking quite a fancy to Pete…
So that concludes our Moroccan tour; from the souks and gardens of Marrakech to the harbour at Essaouira and the paradise that was The Capaldi, it was an incredible trip. I’d recommend it to everyone. Especially if you love adopting other people’s animals!
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